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Bir haftaya bedel 87.gun Kutsal Vadide gundelik hayat

all seasons in one day
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

And Daglari, Dunyanin en uzun dag dizileri.. Uzunlugu 7000 km civarinda. Guney Amerika kita'sinin Bati Kiyisini Kuzeyden Guney'e kesiyorlar.. Bir ucu Karayiplerde, diger ucu Patagonya'da.... Yaklasik 40 gundur, biz de onlari guneyden kuzeye teker teker kesfediyor, renklerine, cinslerine gore ayiriyor, siraliyor yan yana diziyoruz... Onlar bizim farkimizda mi (?) dev bir soru isareti.. Yuzyillardir bas dondurucu endamlariyla duran bu daglar, buralarin tek hakimi gibi...

Kutsal Vadi'ye gelisimiz ani oldu... Inka medeniyetinin oykusunu gunumuzde de yasatan Cusco'yu hic gormeden direkt Kutsal Vadi'ye dalmak belki de hayirli oldu. Onca yoldan sonra Peru'ya varinca dost ellere teslim olacagimizi biliyorduk. Daha once hic tanismadigimiz, ama bizlerden cok maceraci olduklarini bildigimiz Ozer'in arkadasinin arkadasi Arda ve onun kader ortaklari Selin ve Doruk'un Kutsal Vadi'deki evlerini hedefledik. Ortaklasa kurduklari VAMOSS adli girisimle Guney Amerika'yi mahir elden dolasmak isteyenlere ozel turlar tasarliyorlar, eslik ediyorlar..(Arayiniz facebookta "vamoss travel".)

Oncelikle, bir nevi sila hasreti emaresi olsa da, 70 gun sonra Turkce duymak, tanidik tadlarla karsilanmak, bir odaya on gun icin yerlesmek bize cook iyi geldi.
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Vamoss ekibinin, kendilerine sectikleri yuva, Kutsal Vadi'nin turistler icin az populer bir kasabasi olan Calca. Calca her yere yakin. IMG_1968.jpg Evden kafayi kaldirinca yuce daglar... Her bir dagda Inka ve oncesi medeniyetlerin izi. Daglarin arkasi Shamanlari bilge, Amazonlar. Daglardaki yerliler gun asiri kasabadalar. Burada hicbirsey turistik-foklorik degil. Kimene gore ilkel, kimine gore zamansiz! Yerliler oldugu gibiler...

Vamoss'un evi, distan renk vermeyen bir duvarin arkasinda adeta bir vaha. Bu bolgede az bulunan sicak su sistemi ve sobasi var. IMG_1966.jpg Yagmurlu mevsimde olmamiza ragmen hergun bahcede verandada...turlu turlu cicekler, kuslar, orumcekler...icinde yemeklerimizi yedik, ates yaktik, takildik...Kasabanin pazari iki sokak asagida. Hergun kahvalti oncesi taze alisveris. IMG_1970.jpg Ruhun ne isterse... Ister akca agac surup krep, ister patatesli omlet... Kendiliginden kollektif kendiliginden imece. Insanin burada yaraticiligi aciliyor. Daha once bilmedigi tahillar gormedigi sebzeler birbirine karisiyor, dogaclama yemekler cikiyor. Doga bonkor, istah acik, ruh deneysel, iliskiler verici...Garip bir sekilde haz ile huzur birarada.
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Kutsal Vadi'nin tam ortasinda bulunan Calca'dan diger kasaba ve kalintilara ulasim kolay ve ucuz. On gunluk sure boyunca Kutsal Vadi'ye dagilmis kalintilari (Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray, Tipon...bkz. Ozer'in ilgili yazisi) kentin kaosuna yakalanmadan dolasma firsati bulduk. Sabah kalkip bugun hangi kalintiya gitsek (tercumesi hangi daga tirmansak) gundelik bir spor haline geldi. Wayna Picchu'dan sonra titreyen bacaklar cozuldu, hafif cantalar ve bir yagmurlukla daglardaki lamalar misali sekerek yaptigimiz gunubirlik turlar ruyalarimizi degistirdi... Nefesimizi acti. Yagmurda islanmaktan cekinmez olduk. Gunduz selamladigimiz daglar gece uzerimize ortu oldu. Bildik zaman kavrami yok oldu...

Anlayacaginiz, Tibetten sonra Dunya'nin en yuksek platosunda olmak bizi carpti... Sili ve Bolivya'da volkan, laguna, col deyip kucuk dil yutarken.. Peru'da basta Inkalar ve ondan onceki 'ilkel' kabile/medeniyetlerin gozunden bu daglara bakinca, onlarin bu daglarla (orman, bitki ve taslarla vb.) kurdugu iliskiyi gormek bizi baska bir boyuta tasidi...

Herhalde 'Kutsal Vadi' adi da boyle bir yerden geliyor...Eskiden Machu Picchu posterlerine bakinca, ilk tapinagi goren bizler, Wayna Picchu'ya ciktiktan sonra tapinagin arkasindaki 'dagi' önce goruyoruz... Artik Kutsal Vadi'de kafamizi cevirdigimiz heryerde, (Carlos Castaneda'nin kulaklari cinlasin) Daglar bizi yuzleriyle selamliyor, konusuyor.
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Bizi tanistiran ve kucaklayan dostlara ve daglara selam olsun!!

( sevenlere, fonda Sezen Aksu calsin: "benim meskenim daglardir daglar!")

Posted by ayca ozer 19:08 Archived in Peru Tagged mountains travel valley sacred andes calca vamoss Comments (0)

Days 83-86 Boleto Turistico Cusco

10 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

With so many Inca ruins in Sacred Valley, any eager tourist needs to buy the Boleto Turistico to visit all or most, as the boleto provides serious discounts on entry fees to all of the sites, so we do, and spend the week visiting most...
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On the way back from the Machu Picchu Expedition, we spent the night in Ollanta, a small lovely town still with Inca flair, because for some reason it was never fully demolished by the Conquistadors, and it is one of the oldest inhabited settlements on the continent, and because of this, Ollanta is more than just stop on the way to MP.
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Inca ruins on a hillside, are within the city limits and provide great views of the town and the Sacred Valley of the Incas.
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This is where we start to appreciate even more the grandeur of MP, pretty much lower in altitude than Ollanta but being perched on a hilltop and extensive, deserves all the praise Professors Rodriguez asserted back in the days at History of Architecture class, it's all coming back now.
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After Ollanta, on the way back to Calca, we stop by at Moray to investigate the Inca "laboratory" where they built concentric agricultural terraces to observe climate differences due to height variations on plant growing behavior, and produced the most efficient seeds of potatoes, corn, kinua etc.
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This is another great example of Inca know-how and patience at work to achieve perfection, just like stone work all around the Sacred Valley.
Speaking of stonework, next up was Qenqo, a very small archeological site just outside Cuzco, which does not have any stone work standing at all, but has a small maze of caves and tunnels that make up a temple.
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Slanted and slightly disorienting stone corridor leading up to the temple, resembles, or rather, might have inspired the slanted passageways in Torqued Ellipsis by Richard Serra.
A nice 2 Km walk down the hill from Qenqo is Saqsaywaman, AKA "Sexy Woman", as it is renamed for the tourists' sake.
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Sexy Woman's got nice zigzagging curved stone walls as former fortifications, some still standing, some taken down and moved in to Cusco to construct new houses etc. after the Conquistadors conquered the city.
Ceremonial Plaza in the middle of the site is a vast manicured green space, larger than most of the public parks in Istanbul, and populated by animals too, in this case by a herd of camelids. Atop temple hill, there is the panoramic view of the town of Cusco.
The next day in Pisac, we first drive thru "Gringoville", a white men's neighborhood just outside town inhabited by hippies, spiritualists, esoterics and the like, who have migrated here in search of that special thing. Past the ghetto, we reach the top of the hill where the ruins are, from here it is a 3 hour walk back down to Pisac, but what a wonderful one it is.
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The path takes one thru the military barracks, the ceremonial plaza, a cliff hugging trek that goes thru a cave tunnel, then out to the crop storage, then down to the old town and agricultural terraces, by the falls and finally in to Pisac proper, where the handicraft market welcomes all tired visitors.
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Next up is Tipon, a site just outside Cusco, famous for it's use of irrigation channels, but it turns out to be a real trek to get there. Tax police are out for inter-city busses, thus most buses take detours, it takes 4 hours to get to the site. Once at the site we inspect the channels and settle in one of the houses for snacks. It doesn't take too long for lightnings visible beyond hills to get there and we are soaked in torrential rain in an instant. It is time to return home via Cusco, but all Calca bound buses take the long way out and apparently go back thru Tipon, so we end up going to the same town where we hadn't been before, twice in one day! Or is it the dizzy heights?

Posted by ayca ozer 15:01 Archived in Peru Tagged valley sacred woman machu picchu cusco pisac ollantaytambo moray sexy ollanta tipon calca qenqo sacsaywaman mp Comments (0)

Day 79 Andean Explorer(s)

semi-overcast 15 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

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We envisioned the train system in South America to be far more efficient than what we have seen so far, thus we were fairly disappointed thru out the trip not to be able to ride on a single one, and once we came across this service, we figured it might be our only chance to ride one and bought the expensive tourist tickets right away, and really wanted to get out of hopeless Puno at once honestly.
We wake up early to catch our Andean Explorer Train from Puno to Cusco at 8:00 AM, a 10 hour scenic journey thru the Andean valleys to the mythical Inca capital.
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Only the "select" 36 passengers board the train that consists of a diesel locomotive, a baggage car, a services car, a dining/lounge car and a bar/observation car, definitely not a caboose. Both public dining and bar cars are dressed in a dark wood panelling, furnished with plush lounge chairs and chic tables with classic table lights. Each and every single passenger is made to believe they are not only special, but they are also traveling back in time thru the decor reminiscent of the colonial times of a different continent.
As the train pulls out of the station slowly, steam horn blows thru the streets, stopping traffic, local kids waving goodbye.
Scenery is beautiful as numerous high volcanic mountains adorn the north horizon, but they are far away, we are still on the fertile plateaus.
In the town of Juliaca, the train cruises thru the local street/train tracks market interrupting the commerce for a few minutes, and as it goes thru, vendors attend back to their stalls set up in-between and around the tracks.
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At 10:30, mandatory music and dance show takes place in the bar car, and the bait to gather passengers is delicious pisco sour cocktail.
Later around noon, a 3 course lunch of local delicacies like "power-food" kinua tabbouleh, tasty trout and panna cotta are served accompanied by Cusquena beer.
For desert, passengers are summoned to the bar car again, this time for a "fashion show", a version of airplane duty free cart, so we fake post lunch naps at our dining car seats.
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At a high mountain pass, the train stops, what we assume is a track change, but it turns out, it's swapping of crews between the Cusco bound and Puno bound Andean Explorer trains. This short break is a perfect opportunity for locals to push more alpaca wool gear to passengers at the observation car.
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Now in-between the mountains, the train plays hide an seek with the river, as they zig zag each other every couple of miles, going over many stone and steel bridges, the road on the other hand, is just a bystander as the train has the right of way.
As we enter Cusco proper, the train slows down and cruises thru the streets for almost an hour, no wonder, the town extends far in to the valley.
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At the Cusco station, content with the train experience and slightly sad to be leaving, we disembark the train and head to the "rapido" minibus stop for the town of Calca. We take the shotgun on the minibus to enjoy the scenery as the minibus enters the winding roads that lead to the unique Sacred Valley of the Incas, but due to a car accident we are delayed and miss the sunlight, all we could see are high beams.
In Calca, we take a moto taxi and get to our Sacred Valley sojourn, it's the Vamoss Travel HQ, where we are greeted with plain yogurt! bean dish! rice pudding! And for the first time in about 70 days, we have a lovely conversation in Turkish, out of all places in the Sacred Valley of the Inca's.

Posted by ayca ozer 06:10 Archived in Peru Tagged food peru train valley trout sacred rail cusco puno super pisco minibus andean explorer juliaca calca rapido kinua Comments (0)

63.gun Atacama 101: Olum ve Ay Vadileri

sunny 29 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

Dun gittigimiz gokyuzu turu ardindan uzerimize ay tozlari bulasmis, keyfimiz yerinde :)) Belki gokyuzu hipnozu belki de 2400 metre yuksekligin sarhoslugu uzerimizde, sonraki uc gun icin dort tur birden secip kaydoluyoruz (sayiyla 3 gune 4 tur sigdirmaya azmediyoruz).

Gunboyu sicak ve sempatik San Pedro de Atacama sokaklarini dolastiktan sonra kendimizi 16:00'da turizm agentamiz Desert Tour'a teslim ediyoruz. IMG_0224.jpg Durum oyle gosteriyor ki hic de yalniz degiliz. Bizim gibi, her kose basinda bir tura yazilmis onlarca kisi beklemekte. 24 kisilik minubusu dolduruyoruz. Rehberimiz Ingilizce ve Ispanyolca bize guzergahi anlatiyor. Bugun Atacama Colu 101 (universite yillarini geride birakanlar icin bu bir giris dersi kodu :) alacagiz. Tepeden Olum Vadisine bakip, yeralti magralarini turlayip, gunesi Ay Vadisi'nde batiracagiz.

Ilk duragimiz Olum Vadisine ulasmak icin kupkuru bir yoldan 20 dakika tirmaniyoruz. IMG_9004.jpg Ilerdeki karli daglar olmasa, kendimizi Star Wars'in setinde sanmamiz an meselesi. IMG_0218.jpg Adi ustunde o kadar kuru o kadar cansiz, o kadar olu! Yine de bu vadiye, vaktiyle adini koyan Italyan gibi "olu" demeye dilimiz varmiyor. Bir yaniyla o kadar heybetli ve ihtisamli. 

Otobuse geri dondugumuzde istikamet bir gun oncesine kadar yagan yagmurlar yuzunden kapali bulunan magralar. Gozumuz yeni yeni kurakligin sicak pembe-kizil rengine alismisken, bu renge tezat teskil eden beyaza sasiriyoruz. IMG_9069.jpg Magranin girisine vardigimizda etrafimiz kar misali tuz kristalleriyle kaplaniyor. IMG_0216.jpg Bir dehliz misali kimi zaman iki buklum, kimi zaman surunerek gectigimiz magradan cikarken anliyoruz ki bu tuz, aslinda bu cole can veren! Yasam dongusunun kaynagi!!! IMG_0223.jpg

[Bundan 22 milyon yil once Atacama, bir tuz goluymus...Ufukta gordugumuz daglar seviyesine kadar yukselen bu gol, volkanik patlamalar sonucu eriyip gitmis yok olmus... Ama tuz her yere sizmis, yapismis, kalmis.. Yagan yagmurla, buharlasan damlayla hep dolasimda :))  ]

Bu kiymetli toprak parcasi, Sili Doga Parki koruma alani ve bu bolgenin yerlilerine ait. Dogal park isletmesinde yerliler calisiyor, kendi parklarini kendileri gozetiyorlar... 90_IMG_9080.jpg Oyle ki Ozer'in cocuklasip, kum tepelerinde kaymak istegi, gozetmenlerin ilk uyarisiyla son buluyor :))

IMG_9107.jpg Son duraga ulasmadan once 'Uc Meryem' kayaliklarina bakmaya gidiyoruz. Ruzgarin ve atmosferik kosullarin sekillendirdigi bu kayaliklari, Rehber dahil kimse Meryem'e benzetemiyor, ama sagdakinin Pacman'e benzediginden herkes hemfikir:))

IMG_0217.jpg Ay Vadisine geldigimizde gunesin batmasina 40 dakika var. Hava hala sicak, ama gunes batinca buz gibi olacak diye uyari geliyor. Biz de kazaklarimizi belimize sarip dik yamaci tirmaniyoruz. IMG_0215.jpg Yine adi ustunde topografik ve jeolojik ozellikleri itibariyle bu topraklar dunyamizin tatli kucuk uyudusu 'ay'i andiriyor... Tuz, kil ve bircok mineralin ust uste binmesinden olusan milyonlarca yillik dev kitleler uzerinde yerlerimizi aliyoruz.

IMG_0213.jpg Sonunda gunes batiyor... Belki de gun boyu gorduklerimizin etkileyiciliginden, gunesin batisi bize 'normal' geliyor...Esas asagiya inerken gordugumuz tur otobuslerinin coklugu bizi sarsiyor. IMG_9142.jpg Ay Vadisi o kadar buyuk ki, minubusler dolusu turist birbirinin farkina varmadan gunesi batirip, San Pedro de Atacama'ya donebiliyor...

Posted by ayca ozer 12:52 Archived in Chile Tagged desert san death valley moon de pedro salt atacama Comments (0)

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