A Travellerspoint blog

Days 46-47 Valdivia, the Valley of rivers and beer!

sunny 21 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

We don't exactly know how we ended up in Valdivia, honesty. It was a spear of the moment thing right after new year's while we were looking for our next stop. Valdivia seemed like a nice little university town by the water. Short bus ride and vacancy at the permacultura hostel made it a viable stop option for us. And, yes there is supposed to be a great local brewery in town...
Once in town, we hit one of those well organized and extremely professional government run tourist offices for local info to find out that, in and around Valdivia there are about 20 micro breweries, there is a comprehensive brochure on local breweries with addresses etc. Unfortunately, we don't have the time to visit all, but we figure we could at least stop by a few.
So we set out to Niebla, a small town 20 mins outside Valdivia. Local bus drops us off at Kunstmann Brewery, which is apparently the largest and most popular amongst all local beer makers. IMG_8934.jpg Kunstmann's got marketing sorted out. On the premises they have a bar where you can eat and drink; a beer museum where they show a decent collection of beer paraphernalia and Kunstmann history; a beer garden where they hold their own annual Octoberfest-cum beer drinking contests; and a fairly large brewery. IMG_7920.jpg
We sit down at the bar for a sampler set of 6 specialty beers they have on tap. Then we take the brewery tour and go thru the museum and we get walked thru the old brewery to end the tour with tasting the unfiltered Gran Torobayo (The Great Red Bull), by far the best beer they brew, not available outside the brewery. 90_IMG_7929.jpg 90_IMG_7930.jpg

We then get back on the bus to downtown Niebla. IMG_7943.jpg 180_IMG_7945.jpg At the local market food court we take antichucos (equivalent of non-helal local sish kebab) and spot a booth selling Cuello Negro beer. IMG_8930.jpg Two bottles of smooth unpasteurized slightly hoppy refreshing Cuello Negro Ambar wash down the sausage, meat and vegetable mix of antichucos. Satisfied, full and now slightly buzzed, we start walking around town and end up the beach for a breezy stroll.
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We then take the bus over to El Duende Cerveceria, another local joint highly appraised by our hostel owner. We walk in to the brewery shop and pick up a bottle of Ambar and a Negra, IMG_8928.jpg both recently bottled within the last week or so, thus both slightly cloudy and yeasty. Ambar is very bitter compared to Cuello Negro but the award winning stout Negra is smooth, with plenty of caramel and pleasant finish.
While sitting outside the shop sipping our beers, a young tall fella in work overalls drops in and we start asking questions about El Duende. This young fella is Gaston, the brewmaster of El Duende, who later takes us in to the brewery for an informal tour. The place is a small house with an extension room for storage and a cooler room. He walks us thru the process, which is basically the same as a homebrewing set up, with larger tanks of course. The room is filled with delicious wort smell, as a new batch of Ambar is cooking as we speak.
We thank him and wish him good luck and get back on the bus to Valdivia.

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In Valdivia, we make one last brewery stop, this time not at an operational brewery but an old one that got turned in to a contemporary art museum run by the local government. The building used to be home to the first pre-Kunstmann era brewery and suffered a fire first and later, an earthquake that rendered it in operational. It was recently rehabilitated and got turned in to a museum. There are 4 halls with 4 different exhibits in this two story museum on the river. IMG_8932.jpg The front part with ample light and double height glazing where they used to make beer is the painting galleries now. The catacomb like back part is dark, damp, cooler and is home to video art, this is where they used to store the beer back in the days. IMG_8933.jpg Slightly run down now and in dire need of refurbishment, the museum will be rebuilt in the near future and become a monument that celebrates the beer culture and contemporary art in the region of Los Rios, the rivers region of Chile.

Who would have guessed that such a small town like Valdivia would offer such great variety of beer and its culture?
The answer is twofold. It goes back to the German immigrants who along with their families also brought their beer culture with them and introduced beer to the locals. And with the addition of clear and filtered waters of the Los Rios region the first beer turned out great, and proved to be a great success, still..

Posted by ayca ozer 18:02 Archived in Chile Tagged beer cerveza fiesta artesanal valdiva Comments (0)

45. Gun Valdivia da neresi?

sunny 17 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

Adi olsa olsa Almanya'nin guney eyaletlerinden bir kasabayi cagristiran Valdivia'yi secmemizi rehberimiz Lonely Planet'e borcluyuz. Ilgimizi ceken ogeler, bu ve esas bir sonraki yazida gizli:))
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Puerto Montt'tan 3,5 saatlik bir otobus yolculuyla kente variyoruz. Otobus terminali hemen suyun kenarinda, aninda sayfiye havasi kendini belli ediyor. Ilk once Hostel Aires Buenos'u bulup yerlesiyoruz. Sili'de suana kadar gezdigimiz tum guney amerika ulkelerinden daha cok ekolojik degerlere atif var. Bu hostel de permaculture konusunda duyarliligiyla meth ediliyor. Biz de biraz daha egiliriz hevesiyle burayi sectik. her hostelde oldugu gibi bizden on-onbes yas genc bir ekip bizi karsiliyor. Almancave Ispanyolca konusan bir kadin ve yine Ispanyolca'ya hakim Amerika Huston Teksasli bir genc adam. 90_IMG_7999.jpg Genc adam(Andrew) uc gun boyunca muzik zevkiyle favorim oldugu icin resmiyle yer aliyor. Permakultur ne is dedigimizde copleri ayiriyoruz, bulasiklarin durulama suyunu biriktirip bahceye dokuyoruz ve bahcede kompost yapiyoruz diyorlar. 90_IMG_7940.jpg Biz Lonely Planette dahasi var sanmistik deyince, posteri gosterip; esas hostelin isletmecisi Kalifornia'li hatunun bu isle ilgilendigini ama su aralar memlekette olmadigini soyluyorlar. (Takip eden gunlerde bahcedeki kazla kovalamaca oynama suretiyle biz de komposta payimiza dusen katkiyi yapiyoruz :)) 90_IMG_7998.jpg

Odamiza yerlesip, bize verdikleri tavsiye uzerine kapanmadan balik pazarinin yolunu tutuyoruz.
Valdivia, Pasifik Okyanusundan iceriye uzunan bir kol uzerine kurulu. Her ne kadar kiyisindan kalkan nehir botlari yakin kasabalarla ulasimi saglasa da balik pazarindaki cesitlilik ben okyanusum diye bagiriyor.

Ustune ustluk balik pazarinin hemen dibine konuslanmis-bkz fotograflar- bir fauna var ki dudak ucuklatiyor.
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Biz deniz aslanlarini gormeye taa Patagonyalara gidelim, her yazida gordugumuz cormarantlari, akbabalari (vulture) analim, hepsi balik pazarinin kenarinda. IMG_7867.jpg Gun boyunca zahmetsiz doyuyorlar, diledigince gunesleniyorlar. IMG_7875.jpg IMG_7876.jpg IMG_7871.jpg Yasadiklari en buyuk heyecan, atilan kilcigi ilk kim kapacak.
Bu kadar balik gordukten sonra her halin uzerinde yer alan lokantalardan birine oturup, kizarmis merluzalarin tadina variyoruz. IMG_7883.jpg
Ayrica not dusmeli, yedigimiz en tatli domatesler burada! Mevsimden mi ekolojik yaklasimdan mi kim bilir... Tipik bir Sili salatasi (ensalada Chilena) domates, sogan ve taze kisnis olmak uzere uc malzemeden olusuyor. Bir de bu karisimin ince dogranmis hali yemek oncesi istah acici olarak her masada yer aliyor :))

Karnimiz doyunca, kopruden gecerek Valdivia Universitelerinin kampusunu olusturan adaciga kopruden gecerek hemen ulasiyoruz. Universite yaz tatilinde, ama kampus acik. 90_IMG_7888.jpg Universitenin koridorlarinda dolanirken nobetci ogretim gorevlileri karsima cikiyor, ayrica koridorlar ve tuvaletlerin mimari dili cok asina. Bana hic yabanci olmayan bu dunyada kendi gecmisimi aniyorum. IMG_7892.jpg Simdi Istanbul koridorlarinda dolananlara selam olsun :))

Posted by ayca ozer 16:23 Archived in Chile Tagged sea fish market lion vulture valdivia Comments (0)

Day 44 We gonna take another organizized tour? You bet!

all seasons in one day 5 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

First day of the new year, we are up at 7:30 to be ready for the 8:45 collection time of our second day in a row organized tour. A slight hangover hovers over the clouds at this point, just like a hungover vulture who later ends up landing on our hotel ledge for a rest.
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Coffee in hand, we wait for the bus, which does not show up for a about 30 minutes. We call the tour company and hear that due to hard core festivities that took place the night before, we will be collected about two hours later! Thanks for telling us ahead of time! If we knew, we would have partied for an extra hour.
The bus finally shows up, and we head to Puerto Varas, a small town acting like the Puerto Montt suburb, but with distinct Alpine charm of bourgeoisie.

To our delight, the delightful couple we met the day before, Gloria and Jose, are on the tour with us, again. Puerto Varas has got a strong German influence, it shows with the distinct German architecture that goes as far as painting the roof of the "Zerman School" roof with the colors of its flag. At least somebody is organized.
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We drive thru parks and forests to the Saltos de Petrohue, a small but feverish waterfall that one man's life rafting a couple of years back. IMG_7813.jpg IMG_7810.jpg Strong wind and heavy rain force us to take shelter under the souvenir shop. Then off to lake Petrohue with a small beach and a cafeteria. At least the sun is partially out for our jackets to dry a bit. Then off to the Volcano Osorno nearby.
With our new year's luck, the volcano is covered with clouds, no sight of a tip anywhere, no chairlift working either.

Since there is nothing else to do, we are led to the restaurant that looks like a castle. IMG_7833.jpg IMG_8642.jpg We order a parilla barbecue dish for four us to share, with some newly brewed local beers, and start watching the snow come down hard.
Disappointed for two days in a row for not being able to experience the highlights of sights both days, we eat the hearty meal and get back in the van to head back to Puerto Montt (The beer was very young though, it needs to be stored for a while to taste better).
As a principle, we rarely book organized tours as they limit the freedom of moving around, well freely, once at a sight; this time we somehow fell for the quick way out to cover much.
In any case, despite missing the highlights of the both tours by far and being very disappointed with the tour operator for handling the situations, both days, we are glad we ended up spending the last and the first day of both years with Gloria and Jose. IMG_8641.jpg They really made the tours bearable for us. Big thank you goes out to Gloria and Jose in Miami.

Posted by ayca ozer 16:19 Archived in Chile Tagged volcano vulture osorno punto vargas Comments (0)

Day 43 So, we gonna take an organizized tour?

all seasons in one day 15 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

We're booked on an organized day tour to visit the penguin colony off the Island of Chiloe, an island about 200 km long and 5 km off the coast of Chile. On this last day of the year, we are collected from our hotel at 8:45 AM. We greet the fellow tourists as we get on the bus and think about dozing off a bit until the ferry crossing to the island, but our guide is all excited about getting to know us. Those who can resist the bus cradle or those who are high on caffeine, like me, end up talking for an hour, exchanging personal info and interests etc.
The ferry is like one of those that we took to cross the Magellanes, maybe just a little smaller, but definitely a lot more room for passengers to move around. It was sunny out when we left the hotel but it is pissy weather now, and windy too.
Once on the island we drive for a short while until we get to Caulin, a basic village with a church, where take a stroll in the main plaza.

Then off to Ancud, a coastal town on the north shores of the island. Downtown is fairly flat thus prone to tsunamis, there are signs all around town showing tsunami impact zones and evacuation routes.
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The municipal market is new and divided in veggie and fish sections, with community rooms above. Chiloe apparently, is famous for it's fertile potato fields, rumor has it that there are "350" types of potatoes that grow on the island, which does not include Cyprus Potatoes! IMG_7615.jpg
We only managed to spot about 8 types at the market, I guess we need to spend more time on the island!

After Ancud, as we are driving to the penguin colony, we realize that weather is extremely pissy and the sea is way too choppy for anyone to sail. Our guide gets an encouraging call from the "authorities" confirming that the port is open and the penguins are expecting us. With the joy of a slim possibility to see the funny birds, we endure the winding road and nearly zero visibility by looking at the cattle and sheep on the road, a rare sight.

Our bus heads down the hill to our final destination and starts driving on the beach, because there is no road and thanks to low tide, there is a wide beach now. We park in front of a restaurant and hear the bad news that there is no sailing today, what a bummer!

Trying to convince the captain that all of us came from far far away to see the birds and that we are all excellent swimmers does not change the outcome and we're led to the restaurant.
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At lunch we sit with Gloria and Jose, a delightful couple from Miami. Delicious fried fish and excellent Kross beer, a preview to what we have at the hotel for the new year's eve, keep us all quiet until desert time, at which we try again to sail the seas, but no luck. The sun is out, the wind is slow, we are determined, but the old grumpy captain is determined not to sail today, sipping his 5th beer, he's done for the day. Blistering barnacles! IMG_8537.jpg
Devastated by the inevitable news, we start walking on the beach with the hope to spot a few funny birds. No funny birds in sight though, only a few black vultures hovering over the beach looking for leftovers. IMG_7636.jpg Unfortunately, the only funny bird we see today is a dead one washed up on the beach, and the vultures are quick to get there, beating us to the carcass.

Back in Ancud we visit the plaza, the start point of the end of the year family run. IMG_7734.jpg IMG_7729.jpg Then off to an old church where they display other old church doors, windows etc. 90_IMG_7723.jpg IMG_7725.jpg

Disappointed for not being able to see any funny birds, which was the purpose of this day tour, we head back to the hotel. In Puerto Montt, New Year's Eve activities have already begun, people gathering at the concert venue live music on, others lining up on the promenade to watch the fireworks display.
Finally when the ball is dropped, fireworks go off. The display is satisfying, and it helps to be on the hotel balcony overlooking the bay, you can almost touch it. 90_IMG_7772.jpg

Posted by ayca ozer 08:24 Archived in Chile Tagged penguin new years eve chloe patatoes ancoud Comments (1)

42. Gun Deniz'in Bereketi

semi-overcast 18 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

Sili ince uzun bir memleket, Kuzey'e dogru onkusur saatlik otobus ya da bizim gibi 2,5 saatlik ucak yolculugundan sonra iklim ve tabiat degisiveriyor.
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Puerto Montt'da hava 19-20 dereceye cikti. Hava arada yagisli ama yaz yagmuru misali, bir bulut yukunu birakip gidiyor. Bu tazelikle kendimizi sokaga atiyoruz. Burasi Punta Arenas gibi deniz kenarinda buyukce bir liman kasabasi. Vaktiyle yerlesen- daha dogrusu davet uzerine gelip burayi memleketleri belleyen- Almanlarin izi buyuk. Kasabanin meydaninda ilk gelen Alman gocmenlerin bronz heykelleri var. Simdiyse meydana yarinki yeni yil etkinligi icin sahne kuruluyor.

Bu sefer ruhumuz tembel, turizm bilgi noktasina gidip, neler yapilabilir ogreniyoruz. Ardindan bize onerilen seyahat acentasina gidip 2013'un son ve 2014'un ilk gunu icin gunubirlik cevre turlarina kayidimizi yaptiriyoruz..
Onumuzdeki gunlerin 'planli' olmasinin verdigi rahatlikla Puerto Montt sokaklarina daliyoruz. Mahmut Pasayi aratmayacak bir renklilik var. Yer gok tezgah. 90_IMG_7585.jpg Yilbasi eglencesi icin gerekli hersey, sahte kar spreyleri, havai fisekler, sans getirsin diye hediye edilen bugday basaklari ve sari donlar tezgahlarda. Evet burada sari don makbul! IMG_8432.jpg
Yeni yila kadinli erkekli sari don giyerek donaniyorlar!
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Kadinli erkekli demisken sahildeki heykeli de atlamak olmaz! Hersey olabildigine salas ve sereserpe :))

Mahmutpasa benzeri sokak bizi balik-pazarina getiriyor. 90_IMG_7489.jpg Vardigimizda tezgahlar toplanmak uzere... Canli balik kadar kurutulmus olanlari da makbul. Artik gun sonu, balikpazarinda koku ayukta. Satilamayanlar ipe dizilerek kurutuluyor. Asagidaki iki fotografta gorulen kaya bulamacinin icinden bicakla cikarilan kirmizi hayvanatlar, ipe dizilenlerle ayni. IMG_8434.jpg

Halat gibi sarilip dürülmüş olanlar ise tahmin edeceginiz gibi yosun. Salatasi makbulmus. Tabii hersey bol tuzlu :))
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Burada sarimsak sogan bol, sarimsaklarin bir disi bizim bir bas sarimsak buyuklugunde. O yuzden adi 'seytanin disi'. IMG_7486.jpg

Balik tezgahlarindan sonra meyva sebze tezgahlari basliyor. Seffaf tane uzum benzeri meyve ilgimi cekiyor, cok eksi koruk gibi.. Sahane tatli ya da salata malzemesi olur gibime geliyor.. IMG_7488.jpg

Eski pazar yerinin sonu gelmiyor. Son klubecikler ise zanaatkarlara ayrilmis. Kadinlarin cogu ellerinde yun becerilerini sergiliyor. Arada birkac dogal tas, deri ya da bakirdan taki dukkani da var. IMG_8436.jpg

Tum bu renk senligiyle duyularimizi doldurduktan sonra sahile kendimizi atiyoruz. Kentten okyanusa bakinca gorunen adaya dogru sular iyice cekilmis. Nerdeyse yurumek mumkun. IMG_7509.jpg Sonra her iki kara arasi doldukca kalkan bir motor goruyoruz ve karsiya geciyoruz. IMG_7512.jpg
Adanin tepesi de bir hac var, belki cikmak mumkun. Ama gelgit gozlemleme sansi olmamis topraklarin cocuklari olarak, bizi suyun cekildigi nokta cezbediyor. IMG_7544.jpg IMG_8428.jpg 7B1011E22219AC6817E0C100149C183A.jpg Kayiklarin, kumsalin detaylarinda kaybolup gidiyoruz. IMG_8425.jpg IMG_8426.jpg

Donus yolunda adanin mahallelisi cocuklari izliyoruz. IMG_7571.jpg Arada biz de kayniyoruz :))) IMG_8427.jpg

Posted by ayca ozer 08:03 Archived in Chile Tagged sea fish market puerto montt Comments (0)

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