A Travellerspoint blog

Einstein: “Hareket eden icin zaman yavaslar”.

sunny 14 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

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Ne eksik ne fazla tam 100 gun zaman algimizi degistirerek geciverdi. Dondugumuzden beri aklimda Ingilizce tek bir kelime: “content”. Iste boyle hissediyorum. Doymus, tam, sormadan sorgulamadan, arkada kalmis, unutulmus ya da niyetlenip yarim kalmis demeden, bilmeden. “Budur!” dedirten bir his hakim.
Ucak biletini aldiktan sonra saydik, 100 gun cikti. Yola cikarken ‘100’ nedir bilmiyorduk. Ilk hafta gunleri bildigimiz gibi saydik. 1-4 6, 7, 8… gunler gecmek bilmiyordu. Bu halimizi goren arkadaslarimiz, “Ooo siz bu gidisle erken donersiniz” ya da “safak saymaya baslarsiniz” diye espiriler yaptilar. Simdi anliyoruz ki bu durum bize garip geldigi icin sayiyorduk. Her gun icine onlarcasini sigdirir gibi gecmesine ragmen zaman bir turlu gecmek bilmiyordu. Ne olmustu? Gunler mi uzamisti? Ilk kez gittigimiz ve bildigimiz hicbir yere de benzemeyen Guney Amerika’da zaman farkli mi isliyordu?
Tepetaklak olmus mevsim algimizin ustune, yer degistirdikce degisen iklim ve isik tum koordinatlarimizi sasirtti, beynimize ve vucudumuza bolca jimnastik yaptirdi. Bildik referans saatimize gore, bu kitada da gunler 24 saat idi. 8 saat -hadi otobus yolculugu yapiyorsak 10 saat uyorduk. Peki ya kalani? Kalan (24-10=)14 saat tastamamiyla bizimdi. Merakimiz ve isteklerimiz disinda herhangi hicbir etkene tabi olmayan tum saatler bizimdi.
Yine de yasadigimiz zaman algisindaki degisimi sadece bireysellikle aciklamak kolaycilik olur. Zihnimiz durmadan bizi yaniltiyordu, her kent degistirdigimizde bir onceki kent aylar once ziyaret edilmis gibi geliyor, yillardir yoldaymisiz gibi hissediyorduk. En unutulmaz hatiramiz bu olsa dedigimiz an bile, ertesi gun fersah fersah uzagimiza dusuyordu.
Oysa bu ‘unutulmaz an’lardan ne kadar cok yasadik! Gordugumuz yeni dunyalar, yasadigimiz farkli deneyimler tum duyularimizi durterek o ana cakilmamizi sagliyor, an uzuyor, gerisinin ( oncesi ve sonrasinin) pek bir onemi kalmiyordu. O hep alti cizilen anda olma durumu kendiliginden gerceklesiyordu. Bulundugu noktaya (mevsime, dogaya, tarihe, yemege…) kendiliginden odakli olmak bizim o anin icinde genislememize yaradi.
Yeni bir seyle ilk karsilasma aninda genelde nefesimi tutugumu, boyle zamanlarda girtlagimdan acayip saskinlik sesleri cikardigimi sonradan farkettim. Zihnimin karsilastigini ilk anda kavrayamama haline bayildim! O noktada genlesen ana taptim!
Tabii, antremanli zihin hemen atak yapti: Olctu bicti, kiyasladi. Zaten o sirada cene cozuluyor. Zihin, karsisina cikani anlamlandirip ilgili cekmecesine koyana kadar rahat etmiyor. Insan benzer olan durumlarla karsilastikca bu islem cabuklasiyor. Boylece zaman algimiz da hizlanmis oluyor, hizlandikca zaman elimizden akip gidiyor..
Oysa ne kadar cok yeni, farkli, acayip, alisilmadik “sey” ile karsilasirsak, zihnimiz her seferinde bir comez haline gelerek yeniden ogreniyor…
Seyahat, simdilik bitse de, bu ogrenme anlari ve zaman algimizdaki degisim bizim icin cok kiymetli. 5 duyu yeniden harekete gecti. Spor-fakiri kentli vucudum, mevcut oldugunu bilmedigi kaslarini ogrendi.
O yuzden durmak yok, hergun sasirtmaya, denemeye devam…, yerkuredeki, kendimdeki ve burnumun ucundakini kesfetmeye devam…

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100 gun seyahat etmisiz,
6 ulke ziyaret etmisiz,
Havada 29.000 Kilometre ucmusuz,
Otobusle 11.000 Kilometre yol,
Trenle 400 Kilometre yol,
Arabayla 325 Kilometre yol,
Tekne ile 200 Kilometre yol yapmisiz.
Toplam katedilen mesafe yaklasik 41.000 Kilometre, yani dunyanin cevresinde bir kere dolasmisiz nerdeyse, baska bir tabirle hayatimizin yaklasik %0.75’ini bu seyahatte gecirmisiz, ama yuruyerek katedilen mesafeyi tespit edememisiz!

Posted by ayca ozer 08:19 Archived in Turkey Tagged time final Comments (1)

Days 99-100 Over the Equator, homeward bound

semi-overcast 20 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

It is the big day, and a very long one, we are returning home to Istanbul, via Miami-London...
Travel anxiety hit us big time as we only got to sleep for an hour or so. Woke up at 4 AM to go to the airport, we are advised to be at the airport 3 hrs ahead of our flight by everybody and we take it seriously. Check-in done in 15 minutes, we end up strolling thru the airport corridors and shops, on the lookout for the last minute souvenirs and pisco, but we still have more than two hours to kill at the gate! Once again we are reminded that, online and/or word of mouth travel advisory might not be the most accurate information, but it's the only one, one has whilst in transit.
As we board the plane, I am kindly asked to step aside to get my carry-on stuff searched for explosives. Luckily, there is none to be found.
In a few hours, we cross over the Equator and leave the southern hemisphere, our home for the last 99 days.
6 hours later we arrive in Miami Airport, we have 3 hours 'till our connecting flight. Very busy passport control check brings up a few curious bits of information on the screen apparently and we are asked to step in to the special questioning area, well, for further questioning. Ayca insists it's my bushy beard and Peruvian green commie hat that triggered the inquisition, maybe she is right, again!90_IMG_1984.jpg
Going thru a set of questions, I state traveling in South America now and the Middle East in the past, living in Turkey, owning a business there, being a British Citizen, going to school in the US, working in the US and provide all sorts of convincing answers. Ayca is cross-examined in another corner. And we're told to proceed to the next room, where a similar set of questions are asked. And we're finally relased to go pick up or bags. We head down to luggage claim only to see that there is no way of getting out of there anytime soon. Once at customs desk we are led thru the "Green Line" to our connecting flight to make sure we are not carrying any quinua, corn or potato seeds! Finally thru the customs after two and a half hours we check-in our bags at a luggage trolley by the street door, god knows where it will go, but who cares, we're going home, and we don't want to carry the bags no more.
Thru another annoying security check, we barely made it to the gate to board the London flight, after 3 hours, where we are greeted with usual exaggerated but honest English hospitality, signs of getting closer to Europe. London bound flight is an overnight one, so the plan is to have a few drinks over dinner, watch a movie or two, and pass out to wake up in London at 6 AM. After dinner the flight is so bumpy that everybody is bound down by seat belts and there are no refreshments served for the remainder of the flight. Watching a movie turns out to be a challenge between actually following the movie plot and talking to the woman next to us, to make sure she does not "go". At the end, luckily, she does not "go", because she was busy talking to Ayca all night long.
In London, my "hometown", we are greeted with extreme warmth as my British passport is not even looked at at the passport control, security check/x-ray only takes 3 mins. I proudly hit the "smiley button" on the automated security check survey machine there, traveling made easy! But we still have another 3 hours to kill. Later at the gate I am approached by a Heathrow Airport surveyor to conduct a "travel made easy" survey. It turns out, the only drawback of the airport is that there is no working wi-fi! But don't take my word for it...
3 hours waiting and 3 more flying, we land in Istanbul. As we walk towards passport control we meet two Greek fellas who sat in front of us on the flight. Apparently they traveled in South America for 3 months, like us, but in just the opposite direction, from Peru to Brazil. They live right outside Edirne, across the border from us, and they are back just in time for the new farming season, they decided not to hibernate but to go to South America this winter. The tall one turns out to be a musician, plays the bag-pipe he tells us. At this instant we recall seeing a bag-pipe player in Uyuni, Bolivia, about a month ago, and going thru our camera roll we confirm that it is indeed him that we saw in Uyuni.
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We all scream in delight and start laughing, reminding ourselves, the world is so big, but yet so small, distances far, yet close, we as humans so small, yet the urge to travel ever present, once again.
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Posted by ayca ozer 13:06 Archived in Peru Tagged london airport lima istanbul south america security europe bolivia miami equator heathrow uyuni bag-pipe Comments (0)

Day 98 Lima Last Minute Local

semi-overcast 22 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

The lasts two days of the trip, we set out to explore as much as we can, it is our last breath…
We take a public bus out to Larco Museum, which shows artifacts from Northern Cultures of Peru, but it is a trek to get out there, as it takes exactly one hour to get there, for 1 Sol only though.
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We enter thru the erotic artifacts section. Pre Inka cultures (especially Moche) depicted sex in various ways, in bottles, and scultuptures, there are monogamous and polygamous scenes everywhere. There are even sculptures of the dead masturbating, but life goes on after death doesn't it? Or does it?
Later we enter the darkly lit main exhibition halls. Culltures from mostly the Northern parts of Peru are exhibited extensively in social, war, cuisine and jewelry sections. Some exhibits resemble the Arte Precolombino Museum in Cusco, it turns out, both museums are curated by Larco Museum.
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The last piece is a gold plated ceremonial gear shown in a glass box framed by gold leaf painted wood frame, but the real impressive section is the storage area where every single piece in Larco collection is housed in glass shelves, a total of 40.000 antique pieces.
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After Larco, a quick look at the map, convinces us that it might be a good idea to visit the zoo nearby since we did not get a chance to see some of the infamous animals in the wild. As we enter the zoo, we first visit the mountain range mimicking The Andes mountains, which houses the mighty condors, the lazy pumas & foxes, the lovely lamas and some livestock. Then off to the jungle range with tons of birds like colorful and toylike tucans, the local idol cock of the rock, the minion monkeys, some pretty impressive black panthers and funny tapirs.
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After two hours, filled up with the last last dose of wild animals, we decide to head out to a new brewery downtown for lunch. On the street waiting for the bus, we board the exact bus we got on to get here. Naturally, the bus clerk recognizes us but does not give us any two for one discount!
Back in dowtown at the brewery we sample some brews but not impressed at all, we hit the souvenir shops for last minute shopping.
For dinner we go to a popular Italo-Peruvian fusion restaurant for a last chance to digest the South American fare.
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Content and not quite aware of our departure the next day we head back to the hotel for a good night's sleep, but it isn't there, it must be travel anxiety!

Posted by ayca ozer 13:44 Archived in Peru Tagged hotel bus the of shopping zoo lima museum rock miraflores downtown souvenirs cock tucan brewery larco cusine italo-peruvian Comments (0)

95-97. Gunler: Lima

sunny 28 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

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100 gunluk seyahatimizin son duragi Lima'ya, bir yandan donus yoluna girmenin saskinligi diger yandan ise aklimizdaki rotayi tamamlamis olmanin dinginligiyle variyoruz. Lima'nin kalmak icin en keyifli mahallesi oldugu soylenen Miraflores'deki airbnb evimize yerlesiyoruz. Bu mahalle, okyanusun dibinde biten yuksek yamaclarin ustune insa edilmis, hep bakip da dokunamama durumu. IMG_1785.jpg Yoksa ev okyanusa on dakika, Marriot otelin  arkasinda. Kisaca sehrin yeme- icme ve havali alis-veris merkezinde :)) Hava yumusacik...Bavuldan yine yazliklar cikiyor, gunler askili T-shirt ve sort tirilliginde.

Akil alir gibi degil ama Lima'da ilk isimiz i-shop'a ugramak. Cuzco'da iphone sarjim calismaz olunca tek bulabildigimiz Cin mali sarj telefonumun canina okudu. (Aman siz siz olun, pili bitiriyor, sarja takili konusursaniz carpiyor vb.) yenisini alinca gorduk ki pilin kapasitesi yarilanmis. Ez cumle: bu seyahat reklami yapilan alet olmadan bu kadar olmazdi :))

Evde hafif bir yemek pisirip ardindan hizlica uyumak istiyoruz, ne var ki gece kolay gecmiyor. Ertesi sabah kaldigimiz yeri degistirip bir otele geciyoruz. Ozer otelde Six Nations rugby macini yakalayinca otelden cikisimiz ogleden sonrayi buluyor.  
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Lima'daki ilk tam gunumuzu yavastan alip, en yakinimizdaki diger mahalle Barronca'ya yuruyoruz. Burasi daha bohem hatta biraz da sayfiye...yeme- icme yerleri espirili. Cagdas sanat muzesi hemen mahallenin girisinde. Son donem de ne kadar cagdas sanati ihmal ettigimizi hatirlayip hemen bir doz aliyoruz. Muze geneli vasat ama "Waste land" adli filmden tanidigimiz Vik Muniz'in retrospektifini gorunce doyuyoruz :)) 90_IMG_1804.jpg

Pazar sabahi dinc uyaniyoruz, gune taze bir baslangic yapalim deyip kendimizi erkenden sokaklara atiyoruz. Megersem saat 13:00 kadar ana cadde spor icin kapatilmis. Halk bisiklet, paten, kaykay kusanmis, olmadi kosuyor. IMG_1828.jpg Guney Amerika buyuk kentlerinde cokca karsimiza cikan, bu 7'den 77'ye sportif durum bir kez daha gozlerimizi yasartiyor!
 
Bizde de azim var durmak yok deyip, tabanlari yagliyoruz. Bulundugumuz mahalleden eski kente dogru giderken ilk karsimiza cikan mabet Huaca Pucllana, 90_IMG_1834.jpg Inkalardan cook onceki (IO 200-700)medeniyetlerden Wari ait olan piramit seklindeki tapinak. Bildik Misir Piramitlerinden farkli olarak bu yapi bir dikdortgen pirizma. Kitap buyuklugunde tuglalarin yanyana dizimiyle insa edilmis. "Kutuphane duvar" dediklerini bu insaat teknigiyle yapilar, 'kitaplar' arasinda mesafe kaldigi icin depreme dayanikli oluyor. 90_IMG_1836.jpg Gun asiri 4 siddetinde, haftada bir 5 Richter ustu deprem yasanan Lima'da yuzyillarca dayanmanin sirri boylece ortaya cikiyor. 
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Her nesil tarafindan yeni bir kat (seviye) cikilmasi suretiyle yukselen bu tapinagin odak noktasi adak edilen kurbanlar. Her kati kazdikca insan ve cesitli hayvan oluleri cikiyor. Tanrilara kurban verme inanci (hatta kimi rivayetlere gore guncelligini korudugu ihtimali) Bolivya ve Peru'da yaygin. Artik bizi rahatsiz eden bu hikayelerden cok, yeni kent tarafindan kusatilmis bu kalintilara bakan bir evde yasamanin nasil olabilecegine kafa yormayi tercih ediyoruz.

Bir kez daha yola koyulup eski kente dogru bir kac saat daha yuruyoruz. Yemek icin mola verdigimizde 8 km yurumus olmamiza karsin eski kente bir bu kadar daha yol oldugunu farkedince, toplu tasimayi kesfe karar veriyoruz :))
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Sonunda Lima'nin eski kentinin meydanindayiz. Cusco ve Arequipa meydanindan pek farkli degil. Ihtisamli koloniyel mimari. 90_IMG_1865.jpg Kokusuyla aklimizi celen Limali ascilarin sokakta actigi tezgah daha cok ilgimizi cekiyor. Upuzun masalarda halk yok paraya bu tezgahlardan tabak doldurup afiyetle yiyor. Tum ascilarin sirtinda "Lima, Guney Amerika'nin Gastronomi Baskenti" yaziyor. IMG_1860.jpg Midemizi erken doldurdugumuza hayiflaniyoruz. Ama endiseye mahal yok, tum Peru ve ozellikle Lima restoranlariyla unlu. 26805BE32219AC681728042B1E3B7098.jpg Ve bizim onumuzde 8 ogun daha var :))

Posted by ayca ozer 09:47 Archived in Peru Tagged lima miraflores vik muniz gastronomi Comments (0)

Days 93 & 94 : Poor Man's Galapagos

sunny 28 °C
View 100 days/ 100 gün on ayca ozer's travel map.

Overnight bus from Arequipa, first thru the winding mountain roads and valleys, then thru the desert, we are on our way to the town of Paracas, via Pisco. Descending from 2500 meters above sea level, mountains give way to rocks and then to sand, and then sand to the ocean, Pacific abuts the desert dunes, not the beach here.
Since Pisco is not a scheduled bus stop, and Paracas too small to actually have a bus terminal, we ended up on a Lima bound bus. IMG_1991.jpg
Bored to death due to innumerable stops made by the bus earlier and eager to get to stop the soonest, looking out the window, we spot a Pisco sign at the side of the road amidst pisco fields on the desert.
Getting ready to get off, waiting for the bus to make a stop, we notice we are already in another town! Bus crew forgot to drop us off. Driver makes an emergency stop on the highway and lets us off. We cross the highway to head back in Pisco direction to possibly catch a bus or hitch hike. One of the cars we waive at stops and agrees to take us in to Pisco for five Soles. We get in the car, we are about 20 mins out of downtown Pisco it turns out. It also turns out, this car is delivering a package to a factory in Pisco. Both the package and us safely delivered in Pisco, from there we take a collectivo to Paracas. Once again, it turns out this collectivo is not only a shared taxi, but also a food and package delivery car to nearby fish oil factories.

3 packages delivered to factories, in about 30 mins we reach Chaco, the town in Paracas, and check in to a hotel, 90_IMG_1638.jpg book Islas Ballestas tour
Ballestas are a group of small islands off the coast of Paracas Reserve peninsula, and are home to many many birds, a lot of sea lions and some penguins.
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So the next morning, we leave on the two hour morning tour to survey the islands from the boat, but unfortunately tourists are not allowed on the island, only occasional bird dropping collectors are. IMG_1995.jpg Since there are "millions" of birds around, bird droppings pile up on the islands and then scraped off by collectors about every 7-8 years, and shipped to farms in the area to be used as fertilizer. IMG_1664.jpg

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The bonus of the trip is to see the "candleholder" drawn on the side of a hill in the reserve. Obviously, mysteries about why it was drawn are a many.
Back on land, we chill-kill time back at the hotel for a day, before catching our bus to Lima, there isn't much else to do around Paracas apparently, which is why the place is packed even in the low season. IMG_1729.jpg

Posted by ayca ozer 08:50 Archived in Peru Tagged bird paracas candle holder dropings Comments (0)

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